I use fusible interfacing on my shirts, because it gives a crisp, smooth finish but I have noticed lately that heavier interfacing doesn’t stick so well, I’ve tried a few brands and they all need a lot of steaming and pressing to stay in place. I was about to sew a cuff on a shirt recently and the interfacing fell on the floor, I thought I’d ironed it on well, but obviously not.

It does stick but needs a lot of heat, steam and pressing; using a mesh cloth helps because it can take the heat and protects the fabric. I press and check several times because I just don’t want the interfacing to come away or wrinkle when the shirt has been washed – this happened on one shirt, I had to iron and press heavily to smooth it out and it was never perfect.

Featherweight is OK, I use that on the front placket and pocket facings – it sticks perfectly with a light press.

I could use non-fusible which has it’s own issues and woven won’t give me the stiffness I like for collars and cuffs, it would be OK for casual shirts but I make mainly business-like shirts for myself because I wear bow ties regularly.